Travel Post 2 - Tehran

Me & my sister ready to explore Tehran

Though I was born in London, both my parents are Persian and so I make an active effort to learn about and become a part of the Persian culture. I love Persian cuisine, I've attended classical Persian concerts with my father and visited ancient Persian exhibitions at museums at least 100 times, but what better way to familiarize yourself with a country, their traditions and customs than to visit. Although I've visited Iran a couple of times before I was always too young or uninterested to make the most of my trip. So, before stepping onto the plane I made it my mission to research and generate a list of places that would show me Iran's hidden wonders, but also to enrich my knowledge.
My first and main stop - Tehran. Tehran is Iran's capital, a vibrant city with busy streets filled with the sound of Iranian pop music. Contrary to what you might be exposed to on media platforms, Tehran is colourful, fashion filled and extremely lively with love and culture oozing from street to street. The only struggle and my only concern - crossing the road. Tehran is notoriously known for its quite unique driving system - shall we settle on (super) Fast and (extremely) Furious:Tehran?

Laughing now, but I was definitely melting at this point

I must admit, albeit the driving is rather dangerous, I've developed a love-hate affair with it - it's just so.. Iranian.
As I tend to stay with family in Tehran, I haven't got the best opinions on the city's hotel offerings, and as for traveling around the city I would suggest the Metro service if you are map savvy, if not taxi's are extremely cheap and give you a feel of your surroundings!

Valiasr Street

For a real view of the city, I'd definitely recommend Baame Tehran (literally translated as Tehran's Roof). Located on Tehran's hills, this is the best walking hill for the magnificent views. The walk is pathed on safe concrete ground, so it is suitable for all ages - I even did the walk down in flip flops (probably wont recommend, though it's not impossible!). From Station 0 (ground floor/parking) it takes about a 35 minute walk to get to Station 1 - although there is a bus that takes you both up and down the hill in less than 10 minutes for a small charge (seriously small charge of 20p). Once you're at Station 1 there are a few food kiosks, big cafe's with extensive (heated) outdoor and indoor seating areas, serving coffee, tea, shisha, and many desserts. There are also fast-food bars with burgers, kebabs, and many more 'walk & go' snacks. There are also further facilities here such as paintballing and Bungee-jumping - wish I had the strength to do this but there's just something about defying gravity and dangling myself over Tehran's mountains which doesn't really appeal to me. For those of you who are more adventorous Station 1 is also the start of Tehran's famous Mount Tochal - here you can begin your climb either on foot (with appropriate wear) or by the 'telecabin'.

Baame Tehran

One place I was sure to visit on this trip was the Niavaran Palace Complex. Situation in Northern Tehran, this complex consists of several homes and a museum, including the primary residence until the Iranian revolution, of Iran's last Shah, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi and the Imperial Family. The Palace complex traces its origin to a garden in Niavaran (1831), where it was used by Nasir al-din Shah as a summer residence. The late Shah's Palace is a step back to the 1960s-70s life of the Royal family, where many things are left as they were - the Shah's office, a private collection of the Queen's art. All their bedrooms are also open for viewing (no touching of anything is permitted, obviously), the Prince and Princess's rooms left with personal photos, toys and items such as clothing and even tooth brushes! What fascinated me the most was The Royal Library Museum - the King and Queen's personal library set across two beautifully designed floors where an entire collection of titles are left for display - including a personally signed Mickey Mouse book from Walt Disney himself, gifted to Princess Layla.

Outside the palace

The Mirrored Hall where all Royal Ceremonies took place

Now what's a visit to the Middle East without a trip to the best Bazaar the city has to offer. Tehran's main food and jewellery market is located in Tajrish and is known as 'Baazere Tajrish' (Tajrish's market). Here there are narrow alleys filled with herbs, teas, colourful assortments of food, traditional Persian cakes, sweets and nuts and gold - gold, gold, gold. A dream for the window shopper, but an absolute treat for those looking to purchase top quality, intricate jewellery (most of my prized possessions have been purchased or gifted from here over the years).

Only the best

Now times this by 20, a market filled with goods upon every corner

The cutest kitten I found in a toy shop in the Bazaar

As for food, I honestly do not know where to begin so I decided I will name you two of my favourite food and drink spots in the capital. Cafe Rose - for the best pizza's look no further then this Italian-Iranian fusion spot in Vanak - this modern and intricately designed restaurant is definitely one of Tehran's up-market 'fast food' offerings with delicious food at a reasonable pricing. Cafe Rose is an extremely popular choice amongst the younger generation in Iran as it was the location of a popular pop video 'Soosan Khanoom' in 2010. As for my daily caffeine fix, Amir Chocolate was my best friend - a chain of coffee shops throughout Iran featuring high quality coffee and desserts.

Cafe Rose & Amir Chocolate Mocha Fraps - delish

If you go to Iran and eat one thing, make that traditional Persian ice-cream

My one last recommendation is a well deserved trip to Darband - a former village close to Tajrish, and a popular hiking location. Darband offers some of the best kebab houses and traditional shisha spots in Tehran. Although this location is extremely touristy - I love meeting people of all origins here and actually met the most friendly South African honeymooning couple whilst walking down the hill after lunch.

Making our way up the hill to choose where to eat some Kabab Koobide

The winning restaurant

Shopping in Tehran is extensive, with both high street offerings in locations like Pasdaran, and high end brands in the likes of lavish Zafaranieh, attracting the Iranian elite. I have chosen to share with you my personal favourite shopping centre in Tehran, located in Vanak is this two floored mall dedicated to brands ranging from Zara - Chanel but also includes many beauty and jewelery shops. Vanak shopping centre is not the biggest by any means but seems to be rather a hidden gem, away from the crowded popular malls - allowing you to leisurely browse and shop.

Smaller Vanak Mall, but definitely worth a browse

Having spent a couple of months in Iran there are many more memories and photos that I'd love to share, but I only wanted to include my favourites and recommendations for anyone wanting to visit this truly beautiful city. If you are considering a trip here, feel free to ask any questions - I'd love to give information to anyone needing it!

Saina
xo